Rome is not just a city of culture, history, and crumbling marble, but a lively a city that’s a lot of fun. Simply hanging out in the piazzas and on the steps of churches and old buildings is the best way to meet young locals as well as other travellers. There are also plenty of cafes, pubs, and bars offering all kinds of live music. A list of places to go and things to do is provided by weekly magazines such as Roma C’è (available at all newsstands; look for the small English section at the back), the fornightly Wanted in Rome (completely in English), and L’Evento, available at the tourist information kiosks around the city. Roma C’è is on the web at www.romace.it; Wanted in Rome at www.wantedinrome.com.
Cinemas in Rome
To find out what’s playing call the cinema directly or check local newspapers (City and Metro, available free in the metro and train stations, have movie listings in the back pages) or Roma C’è. “V.O.” after a film title means the movie will be shown in the original language, which is usually English. All other films will be in Italian, without subtitles. Cinemas citywide offer a discount on Wednesdays and most have reductions for afternoon screenings.
(aka Nuovo pasquino multisala)
Three screens, three different English-language films several times daily. ¤6.20. Piazza S. Egidio, Trastevere (06 5803622). Take Tram 8 from Largo Argentina to the first stop after the river (Piazza G.G. Belli). From there, turn right and walk down Via della Lungaretta. Just past Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere, head right and look for the orange door on the right side of the small Piazza S. Egidio, next to the bar.
Usually has one screen in V.O. ¤7.50. Via Nazionale, 190 (06 4882653). Bus 40, 64, 170
This newly remodelled cinema near Piazza del Popolo usually offers ***one screen in V.O. every day. ¤7.50. Via del Corso, 18 (06 32000933) Metro A: Flaminio.
Warner Village Moderno
This brand new, technologically superior cinema usually has one screen in English. Piazza della Repubblica, 45 (tel. 06 477791 / 06 47779202). ¤7.50. Metro A: Repubblica, or a short walk from Termini.
One screen, film usually shown in the original language on Monday only. ¤6.20. Via Cardinal Merry del Val (Trastevere; 06 5880099). Take Tram 8 from Largo Argentina two stops past the river. The cinema’s on a smaller street off to the right.
Outdoor operas are frequently held during the summer in interesting venues, including the Baths of Caracalla (where ballets are also presented by the Teatro dell’Opera) and the Basilica of San Clemente. Information and schedules can be found in Roma C’è or Time Out (see above). The least expensive tickets are generally around ¤15. Bus 32 from the Metro A: Ottaviano.
- Teatro dell’Opera. Check here for theatre and opera programs and tickets. Tickets as low as ¤12 sometimes available. Piazza Beniamino Gigli. Metro A: Repubblica. Website: www.opera.roma.it
- Teatro Nazionale. Sala Milloss. Via del Viminale, 51. Metro A: Repubblica.
- Teatro Brancaccio. Via Merulana, 244, near Santa Maria Maggiore. Metro A: Vittorio.
There are classical concerts in Rome year-round in venues of every shape and size. In addition to the normal concert halls there are also outdoor venues during the summer for good music and unbeatable atmosphere. (See Estate Romana, p.50). Among the many locations is the Villa Torlonia, on Via Nomentana; information on concerts there can be found at www.tempietto.it. Occasionally there are summer concerts in the Baths of Caracalla.•
Accademia di S. Cecilia. Parco dell’Auditorium Via De Coubertin 15 (www.santacecilia.it). Bus M from Termini station to the Auditorium
- Oratorio del Caravita. Via del Collegio Romano, 3. Bus 40 Express, 170, or 64 to Piazza Venezia.
- Aula Magna Università La Sapienza. Piazzale Aldo Moro, 5. Metro B: Castro Pretorio.
- Accademia Filarmonica Romana. Via Flaminia,118. Metro A: Flaminio.
- Sala Baldini. Piazza Campitelli, 9. Bus 40 Express, 170, or 64 to Piazza Venezia.
- Sala Palazzo della Cancelleria. Piazza della Cancelleria (near Campo de’ Fiori). Bus 40 Express, 64, 62, 492, 116 to Largo Argentina or Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
- Teatro Olimpico. Piazza G. da Fabriano, 17. Bus 910 or Metro A: Flaminio and bus 225.
Many churches also have live classical music performances. Below is a partial list:
• San Nicola in Carcere. Via del Teatro di Marcello, just west of Piazza Venezia. Bus 40 Express or 64 to Piazza Venezia, or 170 to Via del Teatro di Marcello.
- Sant’Ignazio. Piazza S. Ignazio, 1. Between Via del Corso and the Pantheon. Bus 40 Express, 64, 62, or 170 to Piazza Venezia, or 116 to the Pantheon.
- Chiesa Valdese. Via Marianna Dionigi, 57. Bus 492 to Piazza Cavour.
- St. Paul’s Inside the Walls. Via Napoli, 58. Metro A: Repubblica, or a short walk down Via Nazionale from Stazione Termini.
- Sant’Eustachio. Piazza Sant’Eustachio. Between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Bus 40
Express, 64, 62, or 492 to Largo Argentina, or 116 to the Pantheon.
2003 marked the long-awaited opening of Rome’s Auditorium-Parco della Musica (www.musicaperroma.it), an ambitious and costly complex north of the centre, consisting of three concert halls around an outdoor amphitheatre. The Renzo Piano-designed multifunctional space hosts concerts of all kinds, from classical to jazz, as well as art exhibitions. As with every building project in Rome, ancient ruins came to light during the course of construction at the Auditorium, and now the remains of a 5th century BC Roman villa have been incorporated into the architecture. Even if you don’t go to an event there, the bookshop, cafe, and park are open to the public from 10am-6pm, and they offer guided tours of the complex. If you’re into modern architecture, it’s definitely worth checking out. Viale Pietro di Coubertin (off Via Flaminia, north of the centre) (06 802413504). Bus 52, 217, 910, M; or tram 2.
ROCK, JAZZ & BLUES
• Alexanderplatz. Via Ostia, 9. Jazz club in the Vatican area. Metro A: Ottaviano. In the summer they move to the gardens of the Villa Celimontana (see Parks, p. 41), not to be missed for a great night out.
• Big Mama. Vicolo S. Francesco a Ripa, 18, Trastevere. Blues and rock. Tram 8 from Largo Argentina two stops past the river, then walk left down Via S. Francesco a Ripa.
• Four XXXX Pub. Via Galvani, 29, Testaccio. Metro B: Piramide.
• St. Louis. Via del Cardello, 13. Metro B: Cavour.
• Fonclea. Via Crescenzio, 82A, near Piazza Risorgimento in the Vatican area. Bus 23, 271, 492 to Via Crescenzio (last stop before Piazza Risorgimento) or Metro A: Ottaviano.
LARGE INDOOR VENUES for BIGGER CONCERTS:
- Palacisalfa. Metro B: EUR-Fermi, then bus 706
- Palaeur (Palazzo dello Sport). Metro B: EUR-Palasport
Roman summer nights are made for being outside, and all of Rome becomes a stage during the Estate Romana, the collective name given to a summer-long season of events held in mostly outdoor venues in every corner of the city. Classical concerts take place in gardens and archaeological sites. Piazzas and church steps play host to jazz and blues musicians. Sprawling green parks like the Villa Celimontana become entire music festivals. Theatre is performed in the ruins at Ostia Antica, and classical music in the Baths of Caracalla and the Villa Torlonia. The entire Foro Italico is turned into entertainment space during the summer, with rock concerts, discos, and a huge open-air gym. All this, plus night-time archaeological visits, outdoor movie screenings, and hilltop stargazing appointments, provides affordable entertainment for every taste- an unforgettable way to spend a Roman summer evening.